Friday, July 20, 2018

2018 Tour Recap


 I’ve had a few weeks to reflect on the 2018 Fishhugger tour and want to post some wrap-up thoughts.

It was a great tour this year.  Last year was my first year in a kayak that could be pedaled or paddled so I was not sure how many miles per day was feasible.  This year I had a better idea what the boat and I were capable of and planned a pretty ambitious route (ambitious for me, anyway) of over 150 miles.
This map from my GPS tracker shows progress from Alexandria, VA in 2016 to Elizabeth City, NC in 2018.

I completed the entire route and even added in a side trip to camp at Lake Drummond in the Great Dismal Swamp.  When I look at the map of what I covered, I am still a little amazed I actually did it!  After a ton of planning and poring over nautical charts and Google map satellite images, I finally got to see places with my own eyes.  The places are no longer abstract concepts, now I know what’s there.  I like that feeling.
Sunset at my campsite on the beach at Antepoison Point on the headland where the Rappahannock River opens into the Chesapeake Bay.  Now I know what it looks like there.

I got to see a lot of the Chesapeake Bay and camped on beautiful isolated beaches.  I saw sharks, dolphins, rays, and turtles galore. Even though fishing was slower than I hoped, I caught striped bass, bluefish and a wild one called a Houndfish over three feet long.  
The wild and crazy Houndfish.

After making it down the Bay and through the Elizabeth River, I went through a lock for the first time ever and was raised 11 feet before entering the Great Dismal Swamp Canal.  I spent a night camping in the heart of the Great Dismal Swamp at Lake Drummond.  
The Army Corps of Engineers campground at Lake Drummond. No potable water, but a flush toilet(!), a screened pavillion with picnic table, and this rail trolley.  Did you say Rail Trolley?  Yes, I said rail trolley.  The feeder ditch connecting the campsite to the Great Dismal Swamp Canal is 10 feet lower than Lake Drummond.  Folks put their boats on the trolley and it rolls up to the level of Lake Drummond, where they offload the boats. The operator was gone when I arrived, so I never got to see it in action.

At the end of the 22 mile long canal, I was lowered 8 feet before entering the Pasquotank River.  On Day 10, the Pasquotank transitioned from fresh water back into salt water before I made my final landfall in Elizabeth City.  

That’s exactly where I will start the next leg of the Journey of the Fishhugger.  On tap for 2019?  The Outer Banks of North Carolina!

Other thoughts and themes of the 2018 tour…

Good Humans. I met a lot more people in 2018 than in prior years.  If you followed my posts during the journey, you know that I was helped in ways small and large by a big cast of humans, some of whom I am good friends with, some of whom I had not seen in decades, and some of whom I never met before.   The willingness of folks to go out of their way to help a guy on a crazy adventure was remarkable.  A renewed appreciation for decent humans is not something I was expecting to get out of this trip, but I certainly did.  This was a welcome surprise given everything else going on in the world.  

I hereby thank and rethank everyone who helped me in any way!  If I wrote out the names of everyone who helped me here, you would all stop reading because the list would be so long!

But there are three who do get a special, end of the tour, shout-out:  My wonderful wife Chris and my two awesome kids, Hannah and Julian.  Not only do they tolerate this crazy kayak thing I am doing, they actively support it and celebrate it with me.  Chris posts all the blog entries for me (not because it is impossible for me to do on the water, but because I am incompetent!) and helps me think through problems that crop up along the way.  But more importantly, she gives me encouragement both before and during the trips.  Thanks family!!!

The Weather. I got really lucky with the weather on the tour.  Yes, there were some days that were brutally hot.  And yes, there were many days when the wind was blowing hard in the wrong direction.  And yes, I got pounded by thunderstorms a few nights.  There were some truly spectacular lightning shows.  But I could paddle every day.  There was no time during the whole 2018 tour that I was forced off the water or delayed by the weather.  That is lucky.
A nasty thunderstorm went right over me the night I was camped at Deep Creek Lock Park (I'm the blue dot).  I was in my tent, all snuggly and dry though.

The Flip of the Flops. If you plan to tour, get some really, really sturdy flip flops.  The first pair I blew out was from REI, not some cheapo set.  Still not strong enough.  I may take a spare pair next year.
The original flip flop on Day 1.
Pair #2.  Um, good value, but smokin' hot.
Pair #3. Larger than #2, and I prefer the sparkly pink straps.
The 4th and final pair.  They're still flopping.  Thanks to Richard McMillan for taking me shopping!

Marinas. I stayed at two marinas – rented a cottage at one (Davis Creek Marina on Mobjack Bay) and was allowed to camp in a garage area at another (Dandy Haven Marina in Back Bay).  Marinas are fun and interesting.  Each had its own distinct personality and characters, not to mention a shower!  I will try to stay at more as I work my way down the coast in future years.
My accommodations at Dandy Haven Marina.  The owner was very kind and thoughtfully put me here under cover because a thunderstorm was coming.  They loaned me a car to go shopping (where do you think I got the pink flip flops?). He also would not accept a dime.  Good people.

Let’s do some numbers…

10 – number of days paddling in 2018.

22 – total number of paddling days so far (2016-2018)

160 – Approximate distance, in miles, the Fishhugger covered in 2018.

310 – Distance, in miles, the Fishhugger has covered towards Key West since 2016.

1,193 – Approximate distance, in miles, from Elizabeth City, NC (the 2019 launch site) to Key West.

20 – Approximate percentage of the way to Key West from Alexandria, VA already covered!

0 – number of days the weather prevented me from paddling in 2018.  Prior to this year, the average was weather delays one out of every 7 days or so.

97 – Temperature on June 19, the day I crossed Mobjack Bay, the York River, and the Poquoson River.  Heat Index was well over 100.  No place to hide from that brutal sun!

9 – Number of pounds I lost during the 2018 tour.  I believe I have packed most of them back on already!

4 – Number of pairs of flip-flops (or “thongs” for the Aussies out there!) I went through on the 2018 tour.  #imeldamarcosonthebay. Touring is hard on flops!

1,180 – Amount, in dollars, folks contributed to the 5 Gyres Institute as part of my fundraising campaign.  Thanks folks!

0 – Number of times I was on the water without wearing my PFD.  I always wear mine, even when it is hot and miserable on a calm day.  You should too.

0 – Number of ticks found on me during or after the voyage.  Seven out of 9 nights on the 2018 tour were spent in a tent and no ticks.  Who believes!  I treated my clothes and tent with Permethrin before the trip (I am now a believer) and used a lot of deet on the trip.  I am not a fan of all the chemicals, but for a venture like this, I think the trade-offs are worth it.
 
2 – Number of times a U.S. Navy patrol boat pulled alongside me and asked me to move to the other side of the extremely wide Elizabeth River boat channel, the opposite direction from my destination.

51 – My current age.  The goal is to make it to Key West for my 60th birthday!
This map shows where I have been so far (little blue line way at the top) all the way down to the tip of Florida.

That’s all for now.  In coming weeks, I plan to make some time to review some of the gear I used on the trip.  I loved certain items, and some were not the right tool for the job!  Hopefully others can benefit from what I learned.

Cheers!

Tuesday, June 26, 2018

2018 - June 25 - Day 10 -- Final Landfall for the 2018 Tour

The 2018 Fishhugger tour officially ended on June 25 around 1:15!
I had a nice tailwind and a friendly current that helped me get to Elizabeth City much quicker than I thought possible. Nice to end the tour with the wind at my back.
Going under the last bridge of the trip, the Elizabeth City Drawbridge.

Thanks to all who followed along. Knowing folks were rooting for me and following helped keep me motivated during times of adversity.
Today’s big shout-out goes to my brother-in-law, Rick Montgomery who met me in Elizabeth city and is now taking me to the Outer Banks. Can’t wait to see Chris and the kids there!
I’ll do a longer wrap-up post or two soon when I have access to a keyboard.
The Fishhugger makes final landfall for the 2018 tour.



I was happy to see this fishing line recycling station on the pier of the Elizabeth City waterfront park. 

Unloading the Fishhugger.  Damn, I had a LOT of stuff in this small boat!  Started off all organized and tidy, ended up with bits and pieces all over the boat.

First cold beer after the tour.  With brother-in-law Rick Montgomery in Elizabeth City.

2018 - June 25 - Day 10 - Goat Island Camping Platforms

As I paddled down the home stretch of the 2018 tour, I passed Goat Island on the Pasquotank River.  At one point I had planned an overnight stay at elevated camping platforms there.  I ended up not needing to use the site but stopped by to see what the platforms looked like.  Quick video of them below.




2018 - June 25 - Day 10 - Scenes near campsite and pushing off for last leg

Shoved off for Day 10 — final day of the 2018 tour -- around 7:30Am on June 25.
Had a serious thunderstorm go right over last night. Homes here lost power and lightning strikes were as loud as I’ve ever heard. But I stayed dry and safe, so all is well.
Today’s plan is an 18 mile paddle to Elizabeth City. High of 88 with some clouds in the afternoon in the forecast.
Sunrise on Day 10.



Another new friend.


Another new friend.  A good omen for the last day of paddling.
Cypress knees in the Pasquotank near night 9 campsite.

Monday, June 25, 2018

2018 - June 24 - Day 9 - good people

I love good people. Mike, who I met an hour ago (around 6pm) just delivered this meal of BBQ chicken and cucumber salad.
He told me several time to come take a shower if I wanted, get it. The AC, etc. So grateful.
I also want to add to this post another story from yesterday that I don’t have a picture for. The Dismal Swamp Canal is very long and straight. I can see the real boats coming long before they see me in my kayak. Yesterday in the middle of the day it was so hot and humid. My clothes were soaked in sweat. I saw a boat approaching in the distance. I hailed it on the VHF. The vessel identified itself as Low Country Native and asked why I had hailed. I told him, “I am in a a kayak about 1/2 mile in front of you and I will give you $10 for a cold beverage of any type. There was a brief pause. Then, “we can do that.”
As the vessel approached— it was pretty big— I spoke to the skipper briefly and his partner came to the stern transom with a bag. I tried to give her money but she refused. I gave her a Fishhugger card instead. The bag she handed me contained ice, two waters, a Gatorade, and two snack bars! Before they got out of VHF range, I hailed them
And told them how much they were appreciated. Does anyone know how I can find the owners to send them a card or something? I did not have the presence of mind to get contact info. Plus, it was a highly technical ship-to-ship transfer after all.
Just another instance of good folks helping strangers.

Sunday, June 24, 2018

2018 - June 24 - Day 9 - new friend

I have a new friend. Whiskey is his name. I love Whiskey.





2018 - June 24 - Day 9 - campsite

Fishhugger has landed for night 9, the last night of the 2018 tour.
This is an amazing and easy camp spot for the last night. Offered up by friends of friends of friends who heard through the grapevine (starting with my new friends with the City of Chesapeake — Kevin Kaul) that a guy was kayaking through and needed a campsite.
Amazing. Tonight’s big shout out goes to all the people willing to help out someone they don’t even know! Kevin Kaul and Mike Moore that means you in this case.

2018 - June 24 - Day 9 -

Another hot one today. 93 and humid as hades.
As some of you may have seen on a video earlier, I crossed the NC state line today. Woo hoo! Also stopped at the NC Welcome Center which serves cars on Hwy. 17 and boats on the Dismal Swamp Canal.
I hate to disappoint folks, but the bugs have not been that bad. I have no mosquito bites and no biting fly bites. Of course my skin is a toxic stew of deet and sunscreen, bu it just has not been as bad as I heard it might be. I’ve seen several snakes, but was only able to ID one which was not venomous.
I arrived in South Mills an hour early so I am chilling in the shade while I wait for the 3:30 lock opening. I’ll try to do a live video at the lock. This time I go down 11 feet instead of up.

I forgot to post this sign from the Deep Creek Lock yesterday. I have 1257 miles to get to Key West!

Fishugger waiting to go through the lock at 3:30 near the drawbridge in South Mills.

2018 - June 24 - Day 9 - Drummond Lake and plan for the day

No cell service at Drummond Lake, so communicating with Chris via the Garmin Tracker. The plan for today is to go thru the lock at South Mills and then camp. 

Here are some pictures in and around the campground at Lake Drummond.




Saturday, June 23, 2018

2018 - June 23 - Day 8 - made it to Drummond

Made it to Drummond Lake. Thunderstorms rolling thru now. Happy to be in a screened pavilion! No human in miles!

2018 - June 23 - Day 8 - video of Great Dismal Swamp


2018 - June 23 - Day 8 - Deep Creek Lock - videos

I’m about to push off for Day 8.
After I get through Deep Creek Lock and into the canal, I will paddle to a side canal to Lake Drummond where there is a primitive campground.
Can someone let me know how many miles from the lock to there?
Will try to post some pics or video going through the lock.

Contacting Deep Creek Lock.


Entering the lock.

Waiting in the lock (~5 min video).


Water rising in the lock (~9 min video)



Lock master giving history of lock (~8 min video)





2018 - June 23 - Day 8 - sunrise

Sunrise on Day 8.


2018 - June 23 - Day 8 - picts of Deep Creek Lock Park

In and around Deep Creek Lock Park...


The gates of Mordor. No, wait, these are the gates of the Deep Creek Lock.

The engineers and Amy are to be congratulated.

Lock keepers house.



Fishhuggers berth. 

Plastic